The next chapter of my vacation started in Selçuk, a small touristy town located near the famous ancient city of Ephesus. My journey there from Eceabat was a lengthy one, but, as I mentioned earlier, I didn’t much mind the coastal drive in my comfy travel bus.

My hotel was just a short walk from the bus stop, but we had arrived pretty late in the evening, so once I’d gotten my room and had settled in a bit, there wasn’t really time to do much of anything else. I asked the owner for a dinner recommendation, and went to his suggested place just down the street. Selçuk proved pretty small and quiet, but I enjoyed my stay.

Route from Eceabat to Selçuk, along the western coast of Turkey.

My boudoir.

Dinner in Selçuk.

In the morning I embarked on my tour of Ephesus and the surrounding area, which is just a 15-minute drive from the town. My tour van picked me up and we started up Nightingale Mountain to the House of the Virgin Mary, a pilgrimage site believed to be the place where Mary lived out the final years of her life. There was not much to see in the area, and the experience held no spiritual significance for me, so we didn’t stay long, but I could tell that for many visitors it was immensely meaningful.

A baptismal pool once used to christen new converts. No one knows why it’s shaped like a keyhole.

The entrance to the site.

The House. Simple and unrefined, but I suppose that’s the point. No photos were allowed inside, but the building essentially consisted of two rooms. The first was a small chapel where people could pray, the second was supposedly the room where Mary slept.

To the left of the house there was a church service. We were there on a Sunday, so I’m not sure if it’s an every-day practice. It was certainly a passionate group…

A well beneath the house. I didn’t drink it, but it is said to have a salty taste and miraculous healing and fertility powers. The source apparently flowed in a little channel through Mary’s room, and her presence blessed it forever. People had brought empty jugs and water bottles and were filling them to take to family and friends. Some people had twenty bottles to fill.

The wishing wall, where believers would write wishes and affirmations and resolutions on fabric or paper and tie it to the wall.

Roughly translated as “Wall for Tying Wishes”.

Back down the mountain!

After finishing at the House of the Virgin Mary, we descended back down the mountain and into Ephesus. The tour would take over two hours, our guide said, and there were no toilets and no water available in the site, so we’d all have to plan accordingly. Needless to say, it was absolutely blistering (38˚C, or over 100˚F, to be exact…), and vendors camped out around the entrance took full advantage of this: “Hats for good price! Much cheaper than headache!” “Would you go into the desert without water?” “Buy now or be sorry later!”

Being the organized bunny I am, I already had a supply of water, and being too cool for school, I had no need of a hat or a bathroom. By the time the tour finished, I was sunburned, parched, soaked with sweat, and had to pee like a racehorse.

Ephesus was neat, though, and much more visually appealing than Troy had been, though my guide was rather lacking in knowledge and historical facts. Here’s a nice visual tour anyway!

Ruins of the Basilica of St. John.

Library of Celsus. Built to store scrolls and as a tomb for the revered Senator Celsus.

The theater seating nearly 25,000 people, believed to be the largest of the ancient world. Musicians like Elton John, Sting, and U2 have performed here, and our guide indicated that you could still rent the space for private parties. You’d have to be pretty popular to fill it, though.

By far the coolest part.

Heading toward the exit, relishing the shade!

The exit was filled with vendors, similar to the entrance.

After getting whooped by the sun, we had lunch and then headed on to the next several parts of the tour, which included the Artemis Temple, a rug maker, and a leather outlet. The day was an exhausting one, but I certainly saw a lot, and had a well-earned rest before my tour to Pamukkale the next morning. I’ll post photos of that soon, but in the meantime, here’s the rest from Ephesus!

We went to a rug manufacturer where they weave carpets by hand and make and dye their own silk, wool, and cotton.

Silk worms.

Knots upon knots upon knots. Depending on the thickness of the thread and the size of the rug, it can take anywhere from 2 months to 5 years to finish one.

Price range? $90 to $90,000. Whew.

One of these rugs is worth more than my life.

At the Temple of Artemis. Not really much left to see…

Not sure who he belonged to, as he acted like everyone was his best friend.

After the temple, we made our final stop at a leather emporium for a little fashion show and some shopping. Unfortunately, I didn’t have 2,000 euro to burn on a lamb skin jacket.